tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-47014571110408887202024-02-07T11:19:32.815-05:00Sailing Vessel HorizonMikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04093333620701116892noreply@blogger.comBlogger78125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4701457111040888720.post-19900374730470289252017-02-23T10:05:00.000-05:002017-02-23T10:05:25.881-05:00End of an era<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Horizon has sold. . . and before she was even listed for sale! Cashiers check received and USCG document and Bill of Sale sent. Her new owner and family is getting a great vessel and we wish them all the best. This is the end of a 30-year era starting in 1987 when I bought the Rafiki 35, then took 5 years sailing her from San Francisco through Panama to Florida. We sold that boat in 2011 and swapped her for the Morgan which we then sailed around Florida and the northern part of the Caribbean until July 2016. The life will be sorely missed.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMEpMyGdY-pke38z_G343ajuTDbmp1lWHLzLQN5HNMImQ2qEhFznR8qzDces5Qa3eh5yLHFUErzU8x4a5tKZStz7m45H7FS14Igkn20MU19BvqNu1bAXr5yPU0o3lqu2Nts2bSXE8ll6U/s1600/17+-+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMEpMyGdY-pke38z_G343ajuTDbmp1lWHLzLQN5HNMImQ2qEhFznR8qzDces5Qa3eh5yLHFUErzU8x4a5tKZStz7m45H7FS14Igkn20MU19BvqNu1bAXr5yPU0o3lqu2Nts2bSXE8ll6U/s320/17+-+1.jpg" width="221" /></a></div>
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Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04093333620701116892noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4701457111040888720.post-87771731514737872722016-05-28T09:06:00.001-04:002016-05-28T10:06:49.454-04:00Where do you go when it rains?<p dir="ltr">... or something we were asked just last week: "<i>you </i><i>stay </i><i>on </i><i>the </i><i>boat </i><i>all </i><i>night?</i>"  You kind of expect these questions from non-sailors, they only know fishing boats or maybe cruise liners. Because they have not thought about it, they really have no idea what life on a sailboat might be like.</p>
<p dir="ltr">We expect more from fellow cruisers though. We recently realized that the only fossil fuels we have personally used over the last seven months have been about 25 lbs of propane for the stove and maybe one gallon of diesel maneuvering with the ship's engine.</p>
<p dir="ltr">So we announced that to fellow cruisers at a beach pot luck. When they heard we had not run the engine or generator for so long their response was "<i>We </i><i>have </i><i>read </i><i>about </i><i>people </i><i>like </i><i>you </i><i>with </i><i>no </i><i>refrigeration </i><i>and </i><i>only a </i><i>few </i><i>lights. </i><i>We </i><i>could </i>never <i>live </i><i>that </i><i>simply"</i>.</p>
<p dir="ltr">But we do not live simply. We have used our Torqeedo 3 HP electric outboard daily getting back and forth to beach, we have a built-in fridge with Adler Barbour large vertical freezer, we have ice in our drinks and usually watch 3-4 hours of TV every evening, we make all our own fresh water with a 12V VMT NF-200 water maker, and we leave our LED anchor light on continuously. Oh, and we usually have warm if not hot water for washing dishes and showers and we also keep the phones and laptops charged up.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Some people would say we have taken our shore home life with us . . . and they would be at least partly correct. It is nice that the solar panels and wind generator are set-and-forget methods of maintaining our life style but it did take some thought on systems and implementation and no small initial monetary outlay. For example our 480 watts of solar panels ($500) are controlled by an MPPT control box ($550) that diverts excess afternoon solar power to a 12V/120V dual element water heater element ($100). When we have excess power, why waste it? We use a 1500 watt Prosine inverter ($1100) to supply clean AC power to all but cell phone chargers.</p>
<p dir="ltr">We know people can live extremely well with little or no electrical power. We are not in that group tho.  It did take us a while to realize we could live without ice cream in the drawer freezer or keeping 12 bottles of drinks in the upright refrigerator. By simplifying only a little though, we gained hugely from not having to listen to the generator every evening and especially not having to make frequent trips to the gas station.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Most of the cruisers we were around could not fathom our ability to live without a generator or running the main engine an hour in the morning and evening. I think now they are rethinking their systems.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Our no-interaction-required lifestyle changed this week though. Our Torqeedo outboard started acting strangely. I think fishing line that wrapped around the prop compromised the integrity of the seal around the motor shaft, letting seawater in. We had to mount the old 15 hp Mercury outboard on the dinghy so we will be back to gas station runs for a while.</p>
Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04093333620701116892noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4701457111040888720.post-69491405338856244842016-05-22T11:16:00.004-04:002016-05-22T11:23:02.855-04:00Pressing Pause<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
We have just passed the three year mark for cruising. What we have seen and experienced has been fantastic and never to be forgotten, but we are now ready for a bit of change - like trying land-based living for a while.<br />
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For me (Mike) cruising at the not yet ripe age of 65 seems to have turned into endless body aches and problems that just were not an issue in my 40's. The 5-year cruise in my 40's included scampers up hills with full provisioning backpack, and sitting on the sea bottom for 2 minutes at a time waiting for lunch to swim past. Now I have maybe 20 seconds underwater time before having to broach and blow like a whale. And hills? We are currently anchored in Brewer's Bay St. Thomas, USVI. Between the beach where we land the dinghy and the parking lot where we get picked up by a bus to town is a hill that cruisers have named Mount Everest. It is a mere 85 feet tall but leaves me huffing and puffing. And that is before we add cat litter, gin, and diet Coke. Actually, now that I think about it, that would be the same as lugging all our groceries up stairs to an eighth floor apartment...<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The 85 foot Mount Everest</td></tr>
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Cate misses her peeps (friends and family) and especially the feeling of fulfillment she gets from teaching. She has been going back one week a month since the first of the year to get her consulting business on track and coordinate a place for us to migrate. She just rented us a cute cottage in Gulfport, Fl. It is not big (ad says 2 bedroom NO king beds!) but after a boat, it should work great for us.<br />
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Two trips back Cate bought a sweet 2013 Prius Plug-In with less than 20,000 miles. I know gas prices are lower than they have been in decades, but fossil fuels are still a limited resource and you know prices will only go back up from here. Anyway, low gas prices means that economical hybrids like the Prius are selling very cheaply. And oddly enough, used Plug-In models generally sell for less than the non-Plug-In variety. Go figure! It has exactly the same 50 mpg gas engine fuel economy, many options for the non-Plug-In are standard (backup camera, nav system, etc.) and the Plug-In has a 4kw battery that gives it 12 miles on an electric charge. What's not to like? And the cottage we are moving to has off street parking where we can plug it in!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cate's new ride - 2013 Prius Plug-In</td></tr>
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We intend to leave Horizon with a caretaker in Puerto Rico for this coming hurricane season. She will be close to the biggest hurricane hole in the Caribbean and so should be safe from just about anything.<br />
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Our decision to leave her in the water and in Puerto Rico is that we wanted the option to flee back to her quickly if we need the respite from civilian life. And when we come back, the fantastic cruising grounds of the Virgin Islands are only 60 miles away.<br />
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Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04093333620701116892noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4701457111040888720.post-63143306472983806312016-01-14T09:47:00.001-05:002016-01-14T09:47:40.258-05:00Nexus 5X and Google Fi Project: not ready for prime time<p dir="ltr">As those of you who read our Google+ posts (svhorizon) know, we were excited to pre-order two spanking new Nexus 5X phones using Google Project Fi phone plan. We are currently in the Caribbean and expect to continue to explore islands and do other world travel so the idea of a cell phone plan that gives unlimited talk and flat rate data access virtually world-wide for only a little more than we were paying for Straight Talk sounded great.</p>
<p dir="ltr">We got the phones, initiated the Google Fi plan and it worked fine in Saint Thomas USVI, Puerto Rico and the US. Then we traveled to Europe. The Fi plan documentation said we would have full coverage in Spain, where we were spending 10 days, and also Italy and France for our flight connections.</p>
<p dir="ltr">So Cate and I headed off on our adventure with two companions, one of which had a one year old Nexus 6, also on the Google Fi plan.</p>
<p dir="ltr">The first problems showed up in Rome when Cate's phone refused to get data even tho we all had 5 bars of signal. My identical phone worked fine and so did Frank's Nexus 6.</p>
<p dir="ltr">For the next 10 days through Barcelona, Seville, and Madrid, neither Cate's phone nor mine got data more than a couple hours a day. We almost always had 4 or 5 signal bars though. Of course Frank with his Nexus 6 had full LTE data access the entire trip. I got by using the excellent Maps.me android mapping app that does not require data access.</p>
<p dir="ltr">On the third day we called Google Fi technical support. It was a rather humorous call since we were on WiFi which makes for difficult conversations at the best of times. We finally got our problem across and Google opened a problem ticket. A couple days later we got email asking us to try specific things to help them diagnose the problem. With reliable data only on WiFi tho, it was really difficult to respond in a timely basis. Especially when they ask things like "please list an exact street address". Our answer would be "all of Barcelona and Seville".</p>
<p dir="ltr">Anyway, we were moving from city to city faster than Google support could keep up and there was no resolution before we returned to the US.</p>
<p dir="ltr">I have no idea (and neither does Google) why a year old Nexus 6 would have perfect data access while our brand new Nexus 5X phones had so much trouble. If the Google Fi Project gets the bugs worked out, it will be an excellent plan for those of us who spend more time outside the US than inside. </p>
Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04093333620701116892noreply@blogger.com2Charlotte Amalie West, Charlotte Amalie West18.33936 -64.962296tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4701457111040888720.post-75836318856647372502015-12-07T09:49:00.000-05:002015-12-07T09:49:13.325-05:00Leaving the Salinas safety zone<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Over a month ago, with a <i>new and improved</i> engine, we left the safety and friendship of Salinas harbor. It was a welcome though thoughtful transition. We had a new dinghy with VI registration, and a good weather window. The last evening before the biggest passage we had made in many, many moons was our hurricane go-to spot, Bahia Jobos. It was an uneventful night until I was awakened from a deep sleep with Mike saying, <i>Cate I need you to listen for Ollie in case he falls in the water. </i>Those of you who know us, know that our cats live solely down below. I woke with a great adrenalin surge. Apparently the screen we had used in the companionway for the last three years was mighty enticing the night before our big jump. Both cats had pushed through the bottom and were huddled on the starboard deck close to the lifelines. Rose immediately came in for the treats, Oliver . . . well his feral switch was triggered. So as I called his name I could hear the pitter patter of his large cloven hooves . . . fortunately Ollie is a momma’s boy. So he came to my voice. How had they gotten the memo on our next destination? Or was the tranquil still water and Coqui, which we had experienced many times, enough to call them out on this night? What made this night different from any other night . . . not even Passover time . . . A bit too much of a coincidence in my book.<br />
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Then we caught our breath, put in the Plexiglas divider and proceeded to Green Beach, Vieques. It took about 8 hours. After a night there we had a four hour trip to Culebra, which was every bit as beautiful as we had been promised. To sweeten the transition, our good friends Diane and John came and spent several days exploring with us. Though several restaurants were on fall break, we had a delightful time seeing a crown jewel of Puerto Rico. Snorkeling as good as the Bahamas, mountains to rival Western Maryland, friendly people, a great library, blue waters . . . a must see. We met up with Richard and Sue Klumb as well as our Thanksgiving partners of last year, Brian and Jennifer, on Moon. Cruising in the Caribbean allows an ebb and flow of people that is like a well-orchestrated Virginia reel.<br />
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Three or so days after arriving at Culebra, we headed to St Thomas, a mere 14 miles, 4 hours of motor-sailing. The weather was perfect for the intrepid . . . low swell, low wind. We could see it from Culebra. Our first port of call was Honeymoon bay. The amount of moorings throughout Crown Bay and Druif Bay, or Honeymoon was a bit off-putting. We anchored at the back of the pack and spent a very rolly night before pulling anchor and heading to Christmas Cove off of St James. It was pristine blue, an easy mooring, and equally rolly. I now think I had been spoiled from being on the Southern side of first Hispaniola and then Puerto Rico. Rolling seems to be inevitable in the Virgins. Suppose it is logical with two confluences, the Atlantic and the Carribean, joining. Only small scraps of land to anchor/moor around. So we skipped from Christmas into Charlotte Amalie harbor. It too was mostly rolly, but the availability of the town, the safari buses, and the magic of the island charmed us. Free Zumba at the yacht haven marina, local night on the tram, first Bushwhacker, Lobster at Green House, and the magic of sitting in the harbor with the twinkling lights of Charlotte Amalie all around. Magic.<br />
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After a business trip to FL, we took the opportunity to move to Brewer’s Bay, far less roll, a lot of natural beauty. To port of the airport, aft of the University of the Virgin Islands. An easy hike from the beach to Safari bus, lovely. Pelicans as entertainment for the cats. Every move harbor to harbor is 2 hours of less of trauma for them. Between the accessibility, the academic breeze, the natural beauty . . . I think I could spend considerable time in Brewer’s Bay.<br />
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We are now on a mooring near several old friends met through Facebook. Followed for several years, waiting to finally share a harbor. Bar has nightly events. The beach is beautiful and a stone’s throw away. The folks are an instant community of care. Life is good in yet another paradise.<br />
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As cruisers stop into St Thomas for provisions on the way to somewhere else, I wonder at their hurry. But I, like others we have met, value our best kept secrets.</div>
Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04093333620701116892noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4701457111040888720.post-33428865054880566882015-10-13T11:41:00.000-04:002015-10-13T11:41:36.259-04:00She was a trusty old steed. . .<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Our venerable Avon R3.1 Roll-Away has found a new home. We got her new way back in 2001 and she has served us well but then we saw a nice used AB VL10 for a reasonable price. So out with the old:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDJCT4X5Z-KFtJ3UlihM1dU527YlYZdigtMIELpKsCEswg49yhc7-ROzePCWYjIgvADV4hDCNPhoJul44WmxPOV8RjzU0j5RSStRyyb5riYpNmt8OmKrxpTk0Yg3ir2dmTIiwRs9eEFMw/s1600/IMG_20151012_164820.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDJCT4X5Z-KFtJ3UlihM1dU527YlYZdigtMIELpKsCEswg49yhc7-ROzePCWYjIgvADV4hDCNPhoJul44WmxPOV8RjzU0j5RSStRyyb5riYpNmt8OmKrxpTk0Yg3ir2dmTIiwRs9eEFMw/s320/IMG_20151012_164820.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">2000 Avon R3.1 Roll-Away</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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... and in with the new:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioV-06GzvlXbaHycFuCuST4shh-H2YE_CBHl-s44kMd3Z_uIWX-t82QMOs7mSbKHBdlIbsMfkwYZqG0zVbLFEaDsL2nNWvXH9chtJHI1LRKIMp3JiBaXGfJPmADidOZOliuJon3nSsf0c/s1600/IMG_20151012_164756.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioV-06GzvlXbaHycFuCuST4shh-H2YE_CBHl-s44kMd3Z_uIWX-t82QMOs7mSbKHBdlIbsMfkwYZqG0zVbLFEaDsL2nNWvXH9chtJHI1LRKIMp3JiBaXGfJPmADidOZOliuJon3nSsf0c/s320/IMG_20151012_164756.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">2010 AB VL10</td></tr>
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Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04093333620701116892noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4701457111040888720.post-4192608103572616762015-07-03T11:47:00.002-04:002015-07-03T11:47:51.403-04:00What a difference a few months make<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
We have now been in Puerto Rico for over a year. While the island is beautiful and there is a lot to do and see here, we never intended to stay this long before continuing down the island chain. Our earlier posts have detailed problems we were having with our diesel engine and the rebuild. Our last problem was a new engine head that Perkins was making for us with "delivery 110 days from date of order". Our payment was processed on December 17th last year. Early April was the 110 days and it came . . . and went. We finally were told that Perkins was having casting problems for our order, and several others. This week we got the following note from the Perkins parts house in Tortola: "<b>Our logistics department just informed us that the Factory confirmed your head would be ready in mid August.</b>" Woo Hoo !!!!!!! With any luck at all this will be the last hurricane season we will spend in Puerto Rico for a while. It is nice to know that the best hurricane hole in the entire Caribbean, Bahia de Jobos, is right next door to our current port of Salinas on the South coast of P.R.<br />
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We recently spent a couple weeks at an anchorage about 5 miles East of here (an eastern lobe of Bahia de Jobos), mostly to spend some quality time away from the demanding social schedules for shopping, matinee movies, restaurant food, Mexican Train Dominos, etc. We were actually hoping to make it to Isla Calebra but the weather window we were looking for never opened. We did get to spend most every day in the water snorkeling around the mangrove creeks. The water was not nearly as clear as the Bahamas but at least we found a few interesting things to use our Ion Air Pro camera.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lion fish and Sea Urchin</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tiny lobster feelers sticking out</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lots of starfish</td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVwhy4xUqHoLNi7Q-T15RGWf3xMFwUa05hraWcpEnz5-GlKkDlZK8xd2sf9pitTDjWj_F95wQ1MUZMN0xR5lbjRUFoUG-rvbQ7Fs2CsSXOdcEf2FNQKng1atzKL4_600GAVK_sR9ByIMk/s1600/IONX0031.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVwhy4xUqHoLNi7Q-T15RGWf3xMFwUa05hraWcpEnz5-GlKkDlZK8xd2sf9pitTDjWj_F95wQ1MUZMN0xR5lbjRUFoUG-rvbQ7Fs2CsSXOdcEf2FNQKng1atzKL4_600GAVK_sR9ByIMk/s200/IONX0031.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yet more starfish</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEyQiDCKAG6iX2TzLyHw72tSRSYxWSQzYnroR7lheOATiRGbgDp-ZNrT22al7Lo0ug642jG7gmkgKURe_W0VFHnlW-8HLSFaR67FsyDIU_atMBamjuXAvQ01LtDAwVGvvdu24gnhtmYVs/s1600/IONX0018.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEyQiDCKAG6iX2TzLyHw72tSRSYxWSQzYnroR7lheOATiRGbgDp-ZNrT22al7Lo0ug642jG7gmkgKURe_W0VFHnlW-8HLSFaR67FsyDIU_atMBamjuXAvQ01LtDAwVGvvdu24gnhtmYVs/s200/IONX0018.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Artificial reef?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />When we left the U.S. I figured our smart phones would just gather dust in a bin until they rusted away. Boy, was I ever wrong. My phone has the Navionics Caribbean charts app, Pocket GRIB, DGS Tides, Maps.me, and a logbook database app. For entertainment I have Mahjongg, picture puzzles, Soduku, Shortyz crosswords, card games and the Kindle reader. Turns out it is a good thing I didn't throw away the old Samsung Galaxy Nexus :)<br />
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We keep getting sim cards for one of the phones, Straight Talk w/ATT for here in P.R. and the U.S. with 5GB data and unlimited talk for $45/mo. Tethering works great to maximize the data usage for both our phones and computers. We only have to go to the bars for the more heavy downloading. <br />
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While in the U.S. for the birth of our granddaughter, I decided to get the newest Raspberry Pi 2 Model B. When we got back to the boat I started playing around with it and realized that OpenELEC the little credit card sized computer and our WD My Passport 2TB WiFi drive would replace our home theater PC. The Pi uses virtually no power and takes no space tucked up as it is behind the TV. To the basic Pi box I added a case, WiFi USB bud, keyboard bud, the Media Center wireless remote bud, and a USB extender to make easy thumb drive access. The unit is powered by a USB port on the back of our not-smart-enough TV. So far everything works perfectly!<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5DsQuEszU5SS78SG9HdJTsXo7GMUGXsqnGJcHA8PdNutcR0L8mfK7AV5MV9WgR2_IgcTG7CIL74UYn655DwOZVlPesX0L6u1R-NE9fsmEvMWTgotumML1Fz_NhWd-3XcZy7hMqRgqvqw/s1600/IMG_20150625_080406.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5DsQuEszU5SS78SG9HdJTsXo7GMUGXsqnGJcHA8PdNutcR0L8mfK7AV5MV9WgR2_IgcTG7CIL74UYn655DwOZVlPesX0L6u1R-NE9fsmEvMWTgotumML1Fz_NhWd-3XcZy7hMqRgqvqw/s320/IMG_20150625_080406.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Raspberry Pi wrapped in Saran to be tucked behind TV</td></tr>
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<br />
We have a friend from Saint Petersburg coming in next month and we expect to do some more touring of this beautiful island with her. So far we have seen the Aricebo radio telescope, San Juan, Ponce, both West Marine stores, and various assorted other places around the island. We have yet to visit the caves, rain forest and the German restaurant in the middle of the island everybody raves about. Lots to do before end of hurricane season.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaQ4fVoxMlrIU9URNyddSgSnTuxICZAhXCSPokAv4aDcSgAMx30iSa4ALNG5Mdk_y0dhglJit06PD5jUFvTRhFhPdQkHC2c85WUZw_f5MGS27dfUVl8ty5cGcZTz9D2TsSqiIB5kN4bLU/s1600/IMG_20150428_121153.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaQ4fVoxMlrIU9URNyddSgSnTuxICZAhXCSPokAv4aDcSgAMx30iSa4ALNG5Mdk_y0dhglJit06PD5jUFvTRhFhPdQkHC2c85WUZw_f5MGS27dfUVl8ty5cGcZTz9D2TsSqiIB5kN4bLU/s320/IMG_20150428_121153.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Road hog!</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0gSjuEBuwNEjX2j_KEcyoNgbz4rYtcRZaZMRLeQHnvgUCynYZPMWLqev1gClq2NAmQbQfKIXVB_3P1Dfcl6F26uRpQghU8t5oTaiflPqN2VwFIkBlVc7st6uHhoFsDfmcslU0GiLgseE/s1600/IMG_20150404_164324.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0gSjuEBuwNEjX2j_KEcyoNgbz4rYtcRZaZMRLeQHnvgUCynYZPMWLqev1gClq2NAmQbQfKIXVB_3P1Dfcl6F26uRpQghU8t5oTaiflPqN2VwFIkBlVc7st6uHhoFsDfmcslU0GiLgseE/s320/IMG_20150404_164324.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Easter with Salinas cruisers</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic5uqeysaUJ4jCpILWqgc14uzIhwl7dfXOltvTJTrzTaPszLVEBZaQubfBuWIj6HkkOKYwlVXUMaQ2wl357qX4XLwbRqHS142GfI78ZUtolN-YrJcRAz42YIL3N8PRXeQhPW1QmzGhT60/s1600/IMG_20150204_125146.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic5uqeysaUJ4jCpILWqgc14uzIhwl7dfXOltvTJTrzTaPszLVEBZaQubfBuWIj6HkkOKYwlVXUMaQ2wl357qX4XLwbRqHS142GfI78ZUtolN-YrJcRAz42YIL3N8PRXeQhPW1QmzGhT60/s320/IMG_20150204_125146.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A view of Arecibo radio telescope</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWrC4XVfIuTDt7-MpPubQ_VZi5kInhDOLtaL6rXUx2uREtRUVvVRCtqv6t758sKvAcNJgqho9CSM2hMqztOFbZVllNdLds3ZlOG3VKqz2ptckD53X52aFetatu-P1hc8_lEqsYMysrlUA/s1600/IMG_20150121_123910.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWrC4XVfIuTDt7-MpPubQ_VZi5kInhDOLtaL6rXUx2uREtRUVvVRCtqv6t758sKvAcNJgqho9CSM2hMqztOFbZVllNdLds3ZlOG3VKqz2ptckD53X52aFetatu-P1hc8_lEqsYMysrlUA/s320/IMG_20150121_123910.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fuerte San Felipe del Morro castle, San Juan</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir1szWKK8b6xksf02bv0jXQ0bLzkv9EOAjJS6h6URK6-s7oaBnzD5KsYM02sYomIxb_la-vOvLeHRyhGDZkgjcNB0I4JBSfYueDy3K10lx7doYslHuHaFLos5dJKpYyW8V9B-zVaPj0sg/s1600/IMG_20150110_180352.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir1szWKK8b6xksf02bv0jXQ0bLzkv9EOAjJS6h6URK6-s7oaBnzD5KsYM02sYomIxb_la-vOvLeHRyhGDZkgjcNB0I4JBSfYueDy3K10lx7doYslHuHaFLos5dJKpYyW8V9B-zVaPj0sg/s320/IMG_20150110_180352.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pasa Fina in Salinas</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1PZtwrcRX1YO_gUIOfMxFecWsS0IguRz7GhO6EN22i0t144haDMKQwW8HfDDgIvbYGRuAE0mYO4Ue7LeV-ezQkycvjIRKrIp_Bl-iyYm4agD7r64VZPKbqvs9REgUSY_JmEWPKcXIiG4/s1600/IMG_20141225_132212.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1PZtwrcRX1YO_gUIOfMxFecWsS0IguRz7GhO6EN22i0t144haDMKQwW8HfDDgIvbYGRuAE0mYO4Ue7LeV-ezQkycvjIRKrIp_Bl-iyYm4agD7r64VZPKbqvs9REgUSY_JmEWPKcXIiG4/s320/IMG_20141225_132212.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lighthouse at Rincon</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHo3rhyphenhyphenzMU7w6dZtGTZKY88CLojFc8kD8qStU0qzHjVqPeZluTlV4DSwHqZTJ7XcsQZtsTLO5sC4g5SIWGUHZcE5ZIWZPPBJhJLHOnbcAIsuKtkz4OgXZNi9YnB0h8e-cq4Htfo-W7Qe8/s1600/IMG_20141209_121648.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHo3rhyphenhyphenzMU7w6dZtGTZKY88CLojFc8kD8qStU0qzHjVqPeZluTlV4DSwHqZTJ7XcsQZtsTLO5sC4g5SIWGUHZcE5ZIWZPPBJhJLHOnbcAIsuKtkz4OgXZNi9YnB0h8e-cq4Htfo-W7Qe8/s320/IMG_20141209_121648.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Food court statue at Ponce Mall</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKhR8hetXkIBKWpaIiOwapkxfluPdM3u4tF6e8WNfxntLOMMMrO71wdJEB5xdr885GCaGR0H6tNItFtMYkmUGOrvg5vbynSKsfXREfivNjUSF1V5e-uuQW69bqvq171qayAnlPBzsD5lI/s1600/IMG_20141206_134649.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKhR8hetXkIBKWpaIiOwapkxfluPdM3u4tF6e8WNfxntLOMMMrO71wdJEB5xdr885GCaGR0H6tNItFtMYkmUGOrvg5vbynSKsfXREfivNjUSF1V5e-uuQW69bqvq171qayAnlPBzsD5lI/s320/IMG_20141206_134649.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fire station, Ponce</td></tr>
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Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04093333620701116892noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4701457111040888720.post-15056445645531539352015-03-05T11:32:00.000-05:002015-03-05T11:34:09.480-05:00Nieta<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo2Af-Ma5Pfdbx3MeNxTYWjj3j7vI2tgJ4fQ8lln70ngJMbCLcQr7Aa3f0py4SIa6fI3gWOgl3_shBfiBp5ux3le8zHDgFCQoA9ppjtlxKJZIMHSzDJ2p0MarTcbgQ0ZhtspjOsvD1FEc/s1600/IMG_20150303_221550.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo2Af-Ma5Pfdbx3MeNxTYWjj3j7vI2tgJ4fQ8lln70ngJMbCLcQr7Aa3f0py4SIa6fI3gWOgl3_shBfiBp5ux3le8zHDgFCQoA9ppjtlxKJZIMHSzDJ2p0MarTcbgQ0ZhtspjOsvD1FEc/s1600/IMG_20150303_221550.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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We are grandparents! Baby Quinn Nora Falvella was born 3/3/2015 after 21 hours of labor. I (Mike) have never had kids so the birth was the most amazing and awesome event I have ever had the honor of witnessing. Wow!<br />
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I had originally intended to post the "chest-burst" clip from the movie Alien but after seeing Quinn's perfect features, I just couldn't :)<br />
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Cheryl of Varua noted that Quinn's 18th birthday will be on 3/3/33. Pretty cool, huh?<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrWF-X4I1f7-khfJC-FZEJbZMaCNyTfchFuxJvFkwuVp_OqzKXxajvbSXgJQ6vnIyrHp1YkNQIhiTNOtunngTrbMnaOarrTONyhG0eFE-cgPKKKld6eN7LlqAv1C5llzdzbnV96E47NSc/s1600/IMG_20150303_221839.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrWF-X4I1f7-khfJC-FZEJbZMaCNyTfchFuxJvFkwuVp_OqzKXxajvbSXgJQ6vnIyrHp1YkNQIhiTNOtunngTrbMnaOarrTONyhG0eFE-cgPKKKld6eN7LlqAv1C5llzdzbnV96E47NSc/s1600/IMG_20150303_221839.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Worried I will break it</td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdGmMGkKGiGegpdK6L7FXK5Y9nBkmEaW53to-ohKDujH0FlqrFVQE_YmVuq0MqtJPNrQm3ARjOu561-DBqOp_ie9HhRWb07ho7BpSCp3Kam5a5PV5DBNnNMJJODH9OiERinsbBP-vdUVk/s1600/IMG_20150304_201413.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdGmMGkKGiGegpdK6L7FXK5Y9nBkmEaW53to-ohKDujH0FlqrFVQE_YmVuq0MqtJPNrQm3ARjOu561-DBqOp_ie9HhRWb07ho7BpSCp3Kam5a5PV5DBNnNMJJODH9OiERinsbBP-vdUVk/s1600/IMG_20150304_201413.jpg" height="200" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cate with Quinn</td></tr>
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Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04093333620701116892noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4701457111040888720.post-39864241682251188472015-01-05T17:52:00.001-05:002015-01-05T17:52:50.306-05:00Breaking Free From Parguera<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Though our engine rebuild was not totally successful, we owe our continued journey from Parguera to JBWeld. This product may take us far and for years, or may give up at any port. So we have ordered a new head from the Perkins’ folk in Tortola. Meanwhile we cautiously edge further along as we wait for the 110 working days predicted for delivery. Working days, a concept that causes concern when applied to island work.<br />
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Our first stop from Parguera was to Gilligan’s Island, more officially named Cayes de Cana Gorda. What a perfect first stop after a long stay. Finally we were back with other cruisers, a concept we had not missed until we dinghied to Two Tickets to say “Hola”. We were acquainted last March in Georgetown when we were scheming an approach to the Dominican Republic. Wow, people who get it. People who recently navigated water, who understood why we live on a boat, whose approach to the next stop is all about the weather. Finally true birds of a feather! Add to that scenario, a beautiful placid harbor with a lovely island to explore. Gilligan’s is uninhabited and empty of people during the week. We were able to enjoy not only the quiet of a weekday swim but the weekend camaraderie of the mangrove swimming channel as it filled in with ferry load after ferry load of local Puerto Ricans. The channel is bordered by mangroves with a low current, 3 foot deep area for soaking, kayaking, snorkeling, simply communing with nature. We soaked for hours, reviewing our adventures, projecting our future plans.<br />
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We were finally back to quiet days with nature, relying on our provisions, remembering what makes this a great lifestyle. From Gilligan's we traversed to Ponce, the second largest city in Puerto Rico. We found the harbor excellent for anchoring. The weekend noise from the malecon (like a boardwalk) was insignificant compared to docking at Parguera. Best yet, more cruisers. All of us back on the salt circuit after waiting out hurricane season, most at Luperon. We were in mecca, with Tiger Direct, a full sized mall, a cinema, marine shop and a complete grocery store within walking distance. The serious, over-the-top delight of Ponce-- my vision of attending dance classes while cruising was fulfilled with $3 Zumba at the malecon amphitheater, Mon-Thurs. Zumba uses hand signals to designate number of repetitions, so my minimal Spanish was not a holdback. Zumba to Latin beat, SO MUCH FUN. Though I did have trouble walking on the weekend:). Taxis, people willing and able to meet us partway with some English. A welcoming demeanor, priceless. Our six months in southwestern Puerto Rico were the rural experience. We were now experiencing a more open and generous population. In hindsight I remember moving to a rural area of MD as an adolescence. The difference between Parguera folk and Ponce folk was the difference between rural MD and suburban MD. Our saving grace in Parguera was the gringo population. Those who were originally from the states, but now residing in Parguera. They took us under their wing, transported us when we needed supplies, befriended us. We will always be grateful to them.<br />
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A day pass to the Ponce Yacht Club was delightful. A pool to die for, excellent internet, affordable prices if dockage was needed. A trip to historic Ponce was accommodated via taxi and trolley, transportation. . . so valuable. We enjoyed art—finally seeing Flaming June, a favorite from a childhood game called Masterpiece. Housed at the Ponce Museum of Art. The celebration of Three Kings, a recurring artistic presence in Puerto Rico, was explained in a current exhibit. Epiphany, the day the kings arrived with gifts for the baby Jesus, was once the day that gifts were exchanged rather than the earlier gift exchange at Christmas. We enjoyed a chocolate milkshake at Burger King, a treat we had not had since St Petersburg, 2.5 years ago. We were awed by the beautiful Christmas decorations at the Ponce mall, a mall to rival Westfield in the states. Bilingual taxi drivers were icing on the cake.<br />
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When the weather opened for movement, we left Ponce for the beauty of Coffin Island, Cayo de Muertes. This harbor’s beauty, a mere 2 hour motor from Ponce, is pristine. Swimming, hiking to the active lighthouse, visiting with the DRNA caretaker were all pleasures we relished. I could totally imagine living on the hook in the Ponce harbor, retreating to weekday solitude on Cayo de Muerte. Or going highbrow at the Ponce Yacht club. <br />
<br />
Next stop is where we currently embed our anchor . . . Salinas. This was our original hurricane hang-out plan before we stopped for the engine rebuild. It is a pleasant, protected harbor bordered by mangrove cays, and beautiful mountains whose demeanor remind me of a calendar back-drop. I have to remind myself as we dinghy to the marina that they are real. Always remembering a young ministerial date of yore who said that mountains are God’s thumbprint. Bill, I say they may well be God or Goddess’ thumbprint :). Whomever is credited, they are magnificent. What the Caribbean has lacked in white sand beaches, to date, it has made up for with the amazing mountains. <br />
<br />
As we walked the paths and roads to the grocery, in Puerto Rico, I often reflect that this could be a highway, a road in PA; in western MD, in North Carolina. The mountains on the horizon. Only the temperature, fauna and flora, and time of year distinguish the scene. That thought gives me comfort and intrigues me at the same time. It is a unifying concept. <br />
<br />
Salinas continues to nurture our spirit with a friendly welcome from cruisers who frequent Facebook, introduced us to Mexican Train dominoes, new project ideas and routes through town. A shared ride to the movies, a Christmas Eve potluck, a Seven Seas Cruising host, Jonso, and a Mexican restaurant, Pancho’s. . . the Salinas charm continues while the yearly Christmas wind howls.</div>
Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04093333620701116892noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4701457111040888720.post-86843213820641428842015-01-05T17:44:00.000-05:002015-01-05T17:44:15.227-05:00Dock to hook<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
After almost five months at dock in La Parguera, we were able to motor with our re-built engine to anchor out. For non-cruising boaters, that may seem as interesting a blog topic as one about moving your car from your driveway to the street. But keep in mind, we live on our boat, it is our only home.<br />
<br />
So after months of motorsailing the southern shores of Haiti, and the Dominican Republic, we found a mechanic to rebuild our diesel engine in the town of La Parguera. With the help of good friends, we found an available dock. Docking space in Parguera are at a premium regardless of season. Little did we know that our entire hurricane season would be spent at this conveniently placed dock just outside the town plaza. <br />
<br />
What we have come to love about dock life is the amazing shore access. We simply stepped off the boat, and walked less than a block to a basically fully stocked grocery. This rather than prepping the dinghy, and schlepping our water jugs, gas jugs, shopping bags for a sometimes wet ride to town. We put our watermaker on hold and used dock water, a welcome excess for the hot days of summer and fall. When the summer heat became most brutal, we hooked into the dock electricity and used the window AC for night comfort. <br />
<br />
We developed a semi-regular pattern of walking with good neighbors, traversing the hills and valleys of Parguera, catching up on the history and local knowledge. We were intrigued with the friendly faces of local men working in the plaza. All were very polite, working with our awkward Spanish. Vincent, Ray, Eric each living life on their own terms, happy to share space, always ready to assist. We were a stone’s throw from Carmen’s Shell shop, a delightful collection of boat wear, shells, souvenirs, cold cerveza (beer) and the best Capriccio Sangria ever---produced exclusively in Puerto Rico, we think by Coca Cola. We quickly learned to buy the 8% alcohol liter over the 14% alcohol cans . . . I cannot hold my liquor well enough for 14%.<br />
<br />
We breakfasted with NBC Today, enjoying Savannah’s baby, Roker’s marathon, Jenna’s promotion, . . . we became more attuned to world news, as well as NY news. We no longer could access our VHF radio weatherman or Coconut Telegraph net. But we spent hours in NY every morning. We lunched daily on the fresh, warm Cuban bread available at the grocery. We added hielo (ice) to our daily purchase as the days got warmer, a great treat having iced beverages. And we deviated from our soda-free existence by adding Diet Coke and Sprite Free to the shopping list. <br />
<br />
So we have enjoyed a different side of Parguera this last week. The one we had a few days prior to engine work. One we had almost forgotten. At hook we have gotten our boat legs back, we rock with the current and the wind. We have a level of silence we had forgotten as night falls. The music of the plaza is distant but we are close enough to hear the roosters crow. It’s so peaceful. We have stars to see at night instead of the dock lights. The town looks magical from our perspective.<br />
<br />
I start each day with snorkel, flippers and sometimes a scraper, doing laps around Horizon, enjoying the silence, the occasional fish, the pelicans. Getting in touch with my inner mermaid, the one that likes to peel mayonnaise jars and algae. Our weather man comes on at 7, the marine SSB net at 8. Otherwise, peace and quiet as the tradewinds settle in around 9. <br />
<br />
Now a week later at anchor, we are still buying ice and sodas, now schlepping it by dinghy. As we plan to depart soon, I have purchased extra bread, sodas. We slowly say goodbye to friends and good acquaintances. We look forward to meeting more cruising boaters further down the coast, yet unknown.</div>
Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04093333620701116892noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4701457111040888720.post-66556880968396902342015-01-05T17:41:00.000-05:002015-01-05T17:41:52.289-05:00The Enchanted Isle - Puerto Rico<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Note: We are not even halfway across the south coast of PR yet so these ponderings may be enriched as we travel.<br />
<br />
Mike and I are docked in La Parguera, Puerto Rico, a small town on the southwest end of the Enchanted Isle. We have been at the dock for more than a month. Docking vs anchoring or mooring is a very different experience. With it comes all the freedom of walking easily to town, some television reception, free water for the tanks, and electricity when needed. For me as a reluctant sailor, these freedoms translate into a desire to switch course, to not sail again, or to simply anchor nearby for short periods of time. Or a magical transport to a slip beside Rhonda in St Pete. <br />
<br />
Last summer’s stay on a mooring in Vero gave me just enough of a taste of land pleasures, free bus, air conditioning, walking possibilities, volunteer opportunity to make me question a return to sailing. The same thing is happening this year. To be clear, neither Vero or La Parguera look like a settle-in spot, but the land-based options are like a siren-call to return to liveaboard near a town and airport. Throw in an impending grandbaby and wonderful friendships from the past . . . . Well, suffice it to say our cruising days are numbered. But what number is still up for debate. <br />
<br />
We are awaiting an engine re-build, so far all but two sets of parts are in. Meanwhile we have been blessed with friendship from a boating couple, Jan and Terry, who have made La Parguera ever so much friendlier. They have docked here for several years, know many locals, have a car and took us under their wings the minute we were introduced via Angel of Carmen’s Shell Shop. Well-traveled, sailors turned power boaters, Jan and Terry have navigated much of our engine repair plan and just become great friends. Without them, the enchantment of Puerto Rico would have been harder to label positive. <br />
<br />
La Parguera is a town protected by a series of reefs providing many small cays to visit for snorkeling, beaching, or simply getting out of town. Boat tours to a couple Bio-luminescent bays are a primary income for the town with a lively trade from Weds-Sun. Each weekend night there is entertainment in the plaza, a mere 100 feet from the dock we are renting. We have bright lights and music until<br />
approximately 2am Thurs-Sun.<br />
<br />
The town is backed up by amazing mountains, though mostly brown because the southwest does not get the rain that other regions do. Our ride to the San Juan airport showed us the verdant mountains of central and northeast PR. So far our exposure to San Juan was from a moving car, but it was stunning. A must return for further investigation spot. The people of Puerto Rico are friendly and ready to assist. <br />
<br />
My paucity of Spanish has left me using my dementia training to respond to numerous citizens who converse rapidly and with feeling for many minutes with my only contribution being matching facial expression, body language and murmuring “Si”. I am still torn as to the ethics of interrupting and clarifying that I have no idea what they are saying or simply continuing to validate .. . .so far the validation seems to be better received. Until we talk to the mechanic, then we seek interpreters, Jan and at least one or two locals. Puerto Rican Spanish is apparently fairly unique as affirmed by my seatmate on a flight from BWI. <br />
<br />
Enchantment is a term that applies to both positive and negative magical qualities. Our experience with a transplanted NY’er was a big setback for the cruising lifestyle, a large shadow that has been hard to push aside. Mike has done an admirable job recounting that on our blog at svhorizon.com. Perhaps the enchantment of the island allows the borderline personality to stay free of institutionalization. Enough said, he was not Puerto Rican.<br />
<br />
Our dock life has included several gastrointestinal disturbances for me. The first was probably a result of using a hose that has lived aboard since St Pete to load the water tank. We have since been purchasing drinking water at the small but well-stocked store, a half block from the dock. The second incident was probably food poisoning from a local restaurant, something we have been very lucky to have avoided thus far. A miracle considering how many times I have used marginally fresh product when no other was available over the last 17 months.<br />
<br />
Personally I had built PR up as a mecca, an adjunct to the states with all the advantages. We based our healthcare insurance on PR access, a foolish idea. Very few doctors are able to process American insurance, at least in this part of PR. Spanning 3 hours and 15 minutes end to end, a car is a necessity from La Parguera. There are no taxis, no bus services coming to town. Car rental is 20 miles away. Thank God for friends Jan and Terry.<br />
<br />
In my DR reflections I summarized the changes on the south coast of Hispaniola from Haiti to DR based on the people, and the animals. In Boqueron, we knew we had traversed into a developed country because it was our first time seeing obesity since the Bahamas. As for animals, PR has dogs on leashes, at least in some areas. In La Parguera, the dogs run but are fed, cats still get the short end of life’s pleasures. The work ethic we noted in Boca Chica and the DR is a less prevalent here. No matter when you pass the mall, the lot is packed like it is at holidays in the states. Word is that population exceeds jobs. US support bridges the gap. That being said, there are many diligent people working long hours as mechanics, storeowners, etc. Prevalence vs. incidence is the research topic that comes to mind.<br />
<br />
My naiveté continues at the almost age of 56. I often look the part of a stupid gringo without even realizing it. This journey has broadened my awareness if not my understanding of how things work for those not raised in the states. I now have a fierce response to anyone speaking poorly of my country of origin, especially US natives. Likewise I am vigilant in trying to be a good representative, sometimes a challenge when waiting in line. You can tell a gringo by his/her hands on hips in the ubiquitous lines of PR commerce. I also see how many things are done poorly regardless of a country’s development or its status, US included. But without the journey, I would have never had the extra dimensional perspective. <br />
<br />
I am grateful and looking forward. We cannot return home without traversing the south coast, taking in the islands of Culebra and Vieques. Then the US Virgins are only 15 miles further, and have an airport structure supportive of grandmother-status. But for today, I am going to walk to the cliffs over the Caribbean, close to the enclosed beach. Might even take a bathing suit. <br />
<br />
One island at a time, one town at a time, one day at a time.</div>
Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04093333620701116892noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4701457111040888720.post-42687197764279644632014-11-24T00:42:00.001-05:002014-11-24T00:44:34.637-05:00You can check out but you can never leave<p dir="ltr">Last week we broke out the champagne. We have been almost 5 months here in La Parguera, Puerto Rico, while our Perkins diesel engine was being rebuilt. It was the rebuild from hell but finally the last parts were here, the last machine shop work was done, and the mechanic got the last bits hooked up in the engine room. He fired it up and it ran like a top!</p>
<p dir="ltr">The next day we did a sea trial with varying rpms and wide open throttle. Over the next few days we ran the engine several times carefully checking oil and coolant levels each time. Everything seemed cool so we set off motoring to an anchorage 5 miles up wind from here. On arrival a check of the engine room showed liquid all over the back of the engine. It was coolant. Running the engine now made a fountain of coolant from around the rear fuel injector.</p>
<p dir="ltr">We sailed back to La Parguera and sent the mechanic an email describing the problem. He showed up that afternoon, then came back this morning to try something else. Turns out our newly refurbished cylinder head had a weak spot in the sleeve the injector fits through into the cylinder. Water coolant circulates around that area and found that weak spot.</p>
<p dir="ltr">The head is not repairable and we are now looking for a new one. </p>
Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04093333620701116892noreply@blogger.com1La Parguera, La Parguera17.974966 -67.04657tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4701457111040888720.post-71850674262925548942014-07-30T18:10:00.002-04:002014-07-30T18:10:59.502-04:00Paying for the privilege of being mugged<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
When in Boqueron, Puerto Rico, we were approached at the dinghy dock by a character named<br />
Eddie offering transportation for customs, shopping, where ever we needed to go. That sounded great<br />
since the southwest corner of PR has no car rental agencies, no taxis, no public transportation of any kind.<br />
<br />
We used Eddie's services to go shopping in Mayaguez ($40 for 1.5 hours) from Boqueron. We then moved Horizon here to La Paguera (8 miles as the crow flies) where we are having our diesel engine rebuilt. Cate was flying back to the states so we called Eddie for transport to the airport in San Juan. We paid $220 for him to take us both to San Juan and bring me back to Horizon after dropping Cate at the airport. Since he had lived in San Juan for 12 years before moving to Boqueron, he gave a great tour that was almost 12 hours in all.<br />
<br />
For both those trips we had no problem with Eddie. He was a bit of an aggressive driver but being from NY we expected that and he was talkative and seemed eager to please. At that point we were extremely happy with Eddie and tipped appropriately to show our appreciation.<br />
<br />
When Cate returned a week later, our arrangement was for him to pick up me on the way to San Juan airport. I verified by phone the day before. Eddie forgot to pick me up. When I finally called, he showed up about 30 minutes late and seemed unhappy he had to backtrack to get me. On the 2 hour trip to San Juan he used only one or two word replies. I paid him the $160 for that day's round trip and he dropped me off at the airport to wait.<br />
<br />
When Cate arrived she called Eddie to pick us up and he showed up about 5 minutes later. He had the radio cranked up high and did not open the trunk for us to put in Cate's bags so we started to load us and bags into the back seat. Before Cate was fully in he started driving forward. Cate's foot caught on the curb twisting her body out of the car where her other foot dropped in front of his rear wheel. We were both screaming and he did stop before doing permanent harm. He jumped out and was bent over Cate sobbing how sorry he was. I tried to find out if Cate was injured but could not hear her over his radio. I told him to turn the radio down. He ignored that so I screamed at him to turn the fuc**ng radio down. He ignored that too so I started to reach in to do it myself. At that, he grabbed me in a chokehold, his fingers squeezing harder and harder shouting "no one touches my radio". Cate was screaming from the ground and pulling at Eddie and he finally let go of me. He then wanted us to get in the car... Cate said "you try to kill my husband and you expect us to ride back with you?" We pulled the bags out of the back seat and hobbled to the taxi stand. In our hurry to get away we forgot a $120 CO2 tank we had put in his car. We ended up paying another $185 for a licensed taxi to take us home to La Parguera.<br />
<br />
We texted Eddie to ask him to leave the CO2 tank at a Boqueron bar where it would be picked up but his response was "After what u posted on Facebook u really think I'm going to bring the tank? LOL u must b nuts". That was obviously in response to a short post Cate had put on Women Who Sail forum. It only gave a broad brush description of what happened and was more in the vein of "be careful out there". No more soda making on board for us it seems :(<br />
<br />
Cate has a scuffed left heel, the pivot point that pulled her body out of the back seat. Her left knee has a big bulbous bruise where it hit the curb, and her right foot that was partly under the rear wheel<br />
is hurting. I have a bit of a fingerprint necklace bruise.<br />
<br />
All we can figure is that Eddie either had a psychotic break or was off whatever meds may have kept him stable before. We felt lucky to get off with only some bruising that will go away with time.<br />
<br />
We can only suggest that if you are in Borqueron and a guy named Eddie driving a white Mitsubishi, wearing a Gilligan hat and missing his 4 bottom front teeth offers a ride, think very carefully about how you will react if he turns on you. Be prepared.<br />
<br />
This is the first time we have had any real safety problems in our time cruising. Even in Boca Chica<br />
Dominica Republic when the guy swam to our boat and climbed aboard we never felt in real physical danger. This event has really shaken us up.<br />
<div>
<br /></div>
</div>
Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04093333620701116892noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4701457111040888720.post-56384280988840845152014-06-25T13:56:00.001-04:002014-06-25T13:56:50.360-04:00The Dominican Republic---Land of Delight<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div style="line-height: 115%; margin-bottom: 0.14in;">
<span style="line-height: 115%;">The Best Mate's perspective:</span></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; margin-bottom: 0.14in;">
Il a Vache gave
us perspective and contrast for our southern journey along
Hispaniola’s coast.
</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; margin-bottom: 0.14in;">
Traveling from
the Bay of Ferret, Il a Vache, on the southwest corner of Haiti, our
eastward journey took a full 26 hours to get to the Bay of Eagles,
Baia of Aguilles. Motorsailing the south coast of Haiti we continued
to smell the burning fires used to ward off insects. From Great
Inaugua, Bahamas through Hispaniola this is a prevailing smell that
begins at sundown and ends at sun-up. As we entered the Bay of
Eagles, a pristine safe harbor just inside the coast of Dominica
Republic, the smell of fresh earth after a spring rain wafted from
the mountains. It was a heady change in aroma that had us inhaling
deep gulps and marveling at the fresh slightly spicy scent. The
mountains of DR are delightfully rich with vegetation. “Aromatico”
the Spanish word for the great scent. Because of changing weather,
we only spent one night in the Bay of Eagles. It is a harbor that
should not be missed. It truly is pristine beauty, that is rarely
visited.</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; margin-bottom: 0.14in;">
As to perspective
on traversing the south coast of Hispaniola . . . Virgintino’s
guidebook speaks of the gentle Caribbean as opposed to the North
Atlantic on the Northern coast of Hispaniola. Well, it has not felt
all that gentle. Each stop involves sail repair, massive re-stowing
and recuperation. Having never done the north coast, I cannot
compare. But I have a great trepidation when entering the Caribbean
from safe harbor. Of course we are always heading straight into the
wind, never a great idea. We choose our wind and sea forecasts
carefully . . . of course they rarely match the reality.
</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; margin-bottom: 0.14in;">
But what
Virgintino does express is how much folks miss when they take the
northern route. Now that we have been to several ports, we would not
trade our route. To have only Luperon as a taste of the Dominican
Republic would be sorely limiting. As we traverse the south coast,
we are in awe of the demeanor of the culture, the island’s
development from west to east, and the unique features of each port.</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; margin-bottom: 0.14in;">
The Dominican
Republic is a nation of happy people who live in the moment. Music
and dancing are every day and night. There is no Monday moratorium,
every night is party night. And the music is diverse. Our Barahona
guide, Fernando, saw me appreciating one type and clarified that it
was “romantica”, ballads. They are soo romantic, even without
understanding all the words. Fernando got all dreamy eyed whenever
Julio Iglesia came on the radio. There are all types of music: rap,
techno, hiphop, even a bit of Bahamian Junkanoo.
</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; margin-bottom: 0.14in;">
Next
stop---Barahona. Many blow this port off, feeling it is too
industrial. As we anchored I commented that I could be looking at
Westernport MD if it were coastal, or York, PA. We thoroughly
enjoyed our short time there, mostly because of Fernando, a local man
who acts as guide to boaters. He not only showed us the best spots,
but he was able to navigate the town’s culture, allowing a feeling
of safety when with him. As a Gringo to Latin American culture, the
machine guns in the market and the sawed off shotgun at the bank
would have been far more intimidating without Fernando’s presence.
Barahona was a city without a garbage infrastructure, at least none
evidenced. The streets were full of refuse, the dogs continued to be
poorly fed, un-neutered. Many improvements to life from Haiti—a
Mercado that had a good selection—though no cat food or litter.
The chicken breasts I could never find in the Bahamas were all I
found in Barahona. Even boneless! The motorbike is the primary form
of transportation, and there are many motorbikes. The dogs and cats
were equally miserable in the DR as they were in Haiti. Starving,
homeless, and nursing.
</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; margin-bottom: 0.14in;">
Then we journeyed
to Salinas, another gem of a town with no guns in view! Of course it
is a small coastal fishing village sporting about six clubs, two
bodegos (very small grocery spots), a long peninsula beach that is
heavily frequented on the weekends. Hotel Salinas hosts a hospitable
dock, good restaurant and an evolving ambience. Lovely homes were
interspersed with small tin sheet shacks. Salinas had a garbage
infrastructure replete with large lidded bins. We had not seen such
technology since the states. Even the Bahamas relied on barrels. The
dogs were better fed and fewer. Motorbikes continue to rule. We
left Salinas because of a weather window. It was too short of a
stay.
</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; margin-bottom: 0.14in;">
Boca Chico. Now
we are talking! Trash, some infrastructure. Guns—so far only at
the bank. Beach town. Large Italian influence---who knew? English,
most Boca Chicans speak some. And the market---Ole. That’s the
name as well as the feeling when you realize that you are able to buy
not only cat litter but a rotisserie chicken and sliced cheese from
the deli! Ole indeed. Dogs—less hungry, still mostly stray,
nursing. Puppies did disappear while we were there . . . In order to
appreciate Boca Chico, you must use Marina Zarpar, either moor or
dock. We moored. Riggo, Marina Zarpar’s harbormaster, was a great
friend and assistant to the whole stay. His welcome assistance with
mooring along with his English was manna from heaven after a long
grueling haul from Barahona. When we had a swimmer board the boat
one afternoon, Riggo added security to the docks and was attentive to
our concerns. When we next visit Boca Chico, by plane;), Riggo will
be on our list for a visit.</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; margin-bottom: 0.14in;">
Food in Boca
Chico . . . Since the Bahamas, I had been teasing Mike asking for a
hot chocolate and a fresh croissant in the morning. Well, sure
enough Boca Chico had amazing croissants and bread. The Italian food
was over the top good, the Italian bread, amazing. This was our
first foray into DR pineapples . . . which are the equivalent to
chocolate in desirability.
</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; margin-bottom: 0.14in;">
The walk to town
from the marina took us past many family businesses focused on
handmade chairs and thatched covers for rent. Each family had
someone raking the sand and gathering trash from the day before every
morning, no matter the day of the week. The beach itself offered
hours of entertainment in people watching. Dominicans have a style
all their own. There is no shyness in their presentation.
</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; margin-bottom: 0.14in;">
Overall we spent
six weeks on the south coast of Hispaniola. Each port was more
“civilized”. Every one of them had happy people embracing life
one day at a time.
</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; margin-bottom: 0.14in;">
We have come a
long way from Madame Bernard’s at Il a Vache. No flies, no wooden
table with a meat cleaver-wielding woman. No live chickens being held
upside down. Oh to be born in the DR instead of Haiti.
</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; margin-bottom: 0.14in;">
A day trip with
Dan and Rose of Exit Strategy took us high in the mountains. You have
already seen the pictures. We enjoyed the same “aromatico” in
Limon, high in the Central Mountains. We finished our road trip at
Samana, a lovely port on the east coast, not to be missed if you
cruise the North coast.
</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; margin-bottom: 0.14in;">
Had we journeyed
from Mayaguana, southern Bahamas to Luperon and then to Puerto Rico,
we would have missed the developing changes of Hispaniola. Reading
about Haiti’s bad luck is not the same as seeing people with so
little who remain overall happy.
</div>
<br />
<div style="line-height: 115%; margin-bottom: 0.14in;">
Now as we sit in
Boqueron, Puerto Rico, overall ecstatic to be in a US territory, it
is as if we have had a time travel experience through the development
of countries. It is early days here. The pineapple costs much more
but is equally delightful. The dogs are mostly pets. The check in
was so civilized, by phone, no dogs, no guns. But the music is
quieter, the parties only on the weekends . . .</div>
</div>
Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04093333620701116892noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4701457111040888720.post-4674862654388550042014-05-30T16:22:00.000-04:002014-05-30T16:30:24.827-04:00Dominica Republic<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="line-height: 100%;">It was only a two
day motor sail from Il a Vache to </span><b style="line-height: 100%;">Bahia de las Aguilas</b><span style="line-height: 100%;"> (Bay of
Eagles), Dominica Republic, a total of 120 miles. But what a
difference that two days made. After the constant trash fire smoke
of Haiti, the loamy earth smell of tilled soil was a most welcome
change.</span></div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
There is nothing at
Bahia de las Aguilas, no stores or town, but it is well protected
from the easterly trade winds and southwesterly swells; a welcomed
calm anchorage.</div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
After a night and
day recovering we set off around Isla Beata and the point bound for
<b>Barahona</b>. We arrived about 10 am and dropped the hook in the
protected basin off the tiny marina, Club de Manatee. Within 30
minutes we had cleaned up and launched the dinghy to pick up the four
government officials waiting on the dock to clear us into Dominica
Republic – immigration, customs, M2 drug enforcement, and marine
guard. It was one of the easiest times clearing in we could have.
It took about 15 minutes with everyone in our cockpit and drinking
Kalik Bahamian beer before the paperwork was completed. Then money
changed hands ($83 required but all I had was a $100 US bill so we
“donated” the rest) then they were done. As they were
disembarking from our dinghy at the marina, the immigration official
recommended Fernando as a local English speaking guide since we are
obviously Spanglish challenged.</div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
That afternoon we
had Fernando walk with us into town to get pesos from the ATM at
Banco Popular, a sim card and data plan for the phone from Claro
(about $18USD total with a 1GB data plan), lunch ($19USD for 3 people
including beer and sodas), and the mercado central (open market) for
a huge bag of vegetables including tomatoes, onions, lettuce and
potatoes for about $2.40USD.</div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
Along the way we marveled at the waterfront park with skate boarding
ramps, newly constructed kiosks and even exercise equipment. There
was also a sizable crew doing maintenance and keeping everything
clean. This was so different from most of what we had seen in quite
a while.</div>
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At
one point another boat had a diesel truck come in to top up their
tanks so we put the 20 gallons of diesel we got at Great Inagua,
Bahamas into our tank and refilled our jugs from the truck. In all
we spent about a week and a half in Barahona before being rousted.
It turns out that the tiny basin we were anchored in also had the
quay for freighters collecting gypsum from the plant next door. We
weighed anchor and moved outside the basin and waited. A behemoth
loomed on the horizon and when I checked the AIS it turned out to be
Doris, a 597 foot freighter. We looked at the dog leg turns to get
into the basin and said No Way! I was enthralled ... over the next
two hours one small tug helped the ship inch through a sea lane and
around acute turns that left maybe 10 feet either side. It was truly
an impressive feat and I will forever feel inadequate for my
inability to back our comparatively
tiny 41' Horizon into a
slip.</div>
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<pics freighter="" of=""></pics></div>
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<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
We
cleared out of Barahona that day bound for <b>Salinas</b>
leaving the next morning. About 6AM we weighed anchor and started
off. Around the sea buoy, about 1 mile out, the engine started
surging so we headed back to anchor near where we had been to
diagnose the problem. The
Racor fuel
filter was thoroughly clogged with dirt, probably from the Great
Inagua fuel. We spent 3 hours flushing
and cleaning the filter
housing and replacing the filter before we felt comfortable heading
off again.</div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
Salinas is a somewhat pretty town, very quiet and low key compared to
Barahona. It looks like a beach party town to us. We ate a couple
meals at the hotel and wandered around town but didn't really find a
good place to just sit and watch the world go by.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
We
are now in <b>Boca Chica</b>
and have been for a couple weeks. We are on a mooring at Marina Zar
Par, the marina part owned by Frank Virgintino, the author of the
free Haiti and DR cruising guides we have been using. This town is
well know for the party atmosphere, I think spring breakers frequent
this area, and it has a reputation as a bit of a hook up place.
Weekends especially but even during in the week, blasting music from
shore bars and boats can make it hard to get to sleep before
midnight.<br />
<br />
We did find one more interesting thing about Boca Chica. Remember the movie "<i>My Blue Heaven</i>"? This place reminds us of that movie - most of the downtown restaurants have Italian names and serve Hispanic versions of Italian food, even the deli is Italian! </div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
Our
second day here, Dan and Rose from Exit Strategy who we had met in Il
a Vache invited us to join them in a day trip to the waterfalls at El
Limon. It turned into
quite an interesting trek. We headed off in their rental car in the
morning. We were talking too much and ended up in Santo Domingo the
capitol city, obviously missing a major turn. An hour later we tried
what we thought was the correct exit but soon found ourselves in the
middle of small towns and dwindling pavement.
</div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
The
small scale map we had with us was little help so I suggested we try
to let <b>Google Maps</b>
navigate us towards our destination. Wrong! The voice would tell us
“Turn right in 50 meters” … but there was a concrete wall ...
then “Turn right in 50 meters: … still more wall … finally she
said turn right and there was a road! We took it and this is what we
saw:</div>
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We continued to try to follow Google Maps navigation ending up in
narrower and more rutted dirt tracks until the voice took us directly
into a town dump. We turned around and tried to find our own way
out. About 30 minutes later she started giving useful directions but
meanwhile we had seen a side of Dominica Republic that few gringos
have been likely to see. I think I can mark that one off my bucket
list.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
Once again on main highways we crossed the country towards the north
going over hills tall enough to make ears pop, past towering
mesa-like embankments, and through the central valley filled with
miles and miles of palm trees.
</div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
We
did make it to El Limon
and stopped at the first place advertising the waterfalls. The owner
energetically explained the process of hiring horses with individual
guides to get us to the waterfalls. He also said his wife was a very
good cook and suggested we opt to have lunch at their establishment
after wards. We did.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
So Dan, Rose and Cate got horses, Mike got a mule. Okay, I was
corrected several times as “mula” since my mule was a she!<br />
<br />
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<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
I
would write about the falls and the trip there and back but I was too
terrified of falling off my mula :) Okay, there were trails, a
river to ford, mountains with extreme vertical slopes to ride
(YIKES!),
and finally a water fall. My mule, um, mula grumbled and snorted the
entire way. I know she was saying “get this damned gordo gringo
off my back!”, “can't he go on a diet?”, or other such whinnies
to that effect.
</div>
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</div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
A couple days later Exit Strategy sailed off for Curacao for the
summer and we were left to our own devices. The harbor master of the
marina, Rico, is really helpful. We wanted to have a day trip to
Santo Domingo and were terrified of driving ourselves after watching
what Dan had to put up with. Rico hooked us up with a local driver
and guide for a day trip to the capitol. It was $150USD but well
worth it for us. We went to old town and toured many of the
buildings, some of which dated back to the 1500's. We strolled
through downtown parks and the mile-long pedestrian market street.
Santo Domingo advertises being the oldest city in the Americas,
having the oldest street, oldest cathedral, and the oldest university
(Santo Tomas de Aquino, 1538). During our tour we saw most every
bastion of US influence including Taco Bell, Krispy Kreme, Burger
King, and Payless Shoes. Unfortunately I saw no indication of true
civilization: White Castle burgers. Sigh.</div>
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<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
Our
day trip ended with smoked chicken dinner and lots of wine at our
guide's house in Boca Chica. He did try to get us interested in a
$500/mo 3 bedroom apartment in his house about ½ mile from the
beach. That included water, power, cable
TV, internet and rooftop
access for laundry and parties. As the wine flowed,
the $500 came all the way down to $350 per month. He did say that
$1000 USD per month lets one live like a king here. Hmmmmm.....</div>
</div>
Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04093333620701116892noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4701457111040888720.post-83939659655593436692014-05-11T16:19:00.000-04:002015-11-05T10:13:44.112-05:00Il A Vache, An Existential Crisis<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div style="line-height: 115%; margin-bottom: 0.14in;">
<span style="line-height: 115%;">The captain was
convinced we needed to go beyond the Bahamas, to experience true
island cruising. The admiral agreed simply to get it over with, get
it out of his system, and see what she might be missing. The process
of deciding the north coast of Hispaniola or the south coast took
several months of comparing others’ experience, reading Frank
Virgintino’s cruising guides, conferring with him via email, and
finally buying into the idea that the Caribbean Sea is gentler than
the Atlantic. So windward passage, past Cuba, with the only tenable
first rest stop being Il A Vache, a small island off the coast of
Haiti. Technically not Haiti proper. It was 218 miles from the
last Bahamian island to Il A Vache, for us, a 50 hour passage. The
weather was supposed to be windless with almost non-existent swell .
. . but the weather is a bit like the daily horoscope, rarely
resembling reality.</span></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; margin-bottom: 0.14in;">
Our first hours
were pleasant, sailing at 6 knots in 12-15 knots of wind. But
pleasant switched to unpleasant as we turned the corner out of the
passage and into the Caribbean. The swell was 3-5 feet from the
southeast, meaning Horizon was smacked on her starboard bow
repeatedly. Sails were useless, so full motor with all the noise and
discomfort that accompanies that. The cats were no longer open to
snacks, it was every being for him or herself between watches. I
prefer dead of night watch because I am not able to see the size of
waves heading my way. The only seat tenable in our cockpit for a
three hour stint is starboard, so the action was a bit close for
comfort in the light of day.
</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; margin-bottom: 0.14in;">
As we turned
into the harbor towards Il A Vache, we felt hopeful even as the waves
continued to buffet us and the fishing buoys threatened to tangle our
prop. It was quite the juxtaposition, a 41 foot sailboat with all
sails down, motor running as the Batiments of Haiti were sailing out
for the day’s catch. These wooden boats are sailed with the minimum
of crew, no power, steering only by the positioning of crew and boom.
I imagined their man overboard protocol, <i>one less mouth to feed</i>.
As we turned into Baie de Feret, the anchorage at Ile a Vache, we
were greeted by a dugout canoe being rowed by Pepe who sidled up to
our hull and presented a letter of recommendation from another
cruiser, in a ziplock baggie. We thanked him and told him we had
read of him in blogs. Little did we know that Pepe was the first of
way too many assistants looking for work and or food . . . depending
on age. We had the dubious <i>honor</i> of having no less than 20
canoe-sized boats with villagers hanging off our safety lines while
we anchored. Of course it took 5 attempts to anchor successfully.
The admiral and captain were hard pressed to attend to the task with
so many requests in English, Creole and French. We politely
explained we were tired, and we would be available <i>demain,
</i>tomorrow. Big mistake!
</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; margin-bottom: 0.14in;">
Post anchoring
and feeding the crew, we slept for five hours, awoken by the sound of
youthful voices swimming near the stern. Our bed is athwart the
stern, with portholes on either side. I came to full consciousness
when a brown haunch was tangling from the lowest rung of the not-
yet-extended swim ladder. This is when the existential crisis
started burbling. I felt violated, yet ridiculous knowing that I was
living in a palace, and someone had simply tried to cross my moat . .
.
</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; margin-bottom: 0.14in;">
I have never
dealt well with people approaching me unawares. I also have never
felt comfortable responding to need that seems much larger than my
ability to respond. Sounds non-Christian, lame even. Jesus’
admonishment, <i>I was hungry, and you did not feed me, </i>reverberated
in my head.
</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; margin-bottom: 0.14in;">
So began seven
days of an experience we were unprepared for. We had gotten together
school supplies to donate to the local orphanage, as suggested by the
guide book. We had small treats to offer children as well. We had
read of another boat leaving Il A Vache quickly because of the boat
boys. We had even queried Frank Virgintino specifically about the
boat visitors. He assured us that no one was hungry in Il A Vache,
and confirmed that the children were no problem, would not harm us.
They were gentle but persistent. The older the visitor, the less
gracious the response was to our negative response. There was no
violence, simply a bitter face. The children moved on the easiest,
the adults were more persistent, one even hanging on the boat
whistling for us for some time.
</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; margin-bottom: 0.14in;">
We were
overwhelmed by the sheer volume of visitors to Horizon, any hour from
sun up to sundown.
</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; margin-bottom: 0.14in;">
We hired many
workers to do work we ourselves would not have otherwise done. Of the
60 visits the first two days, I divvied up labor to those who had
been most appealing, kindest, stood out of the crowd. Pepe was our
guide for the market; Ashley, who had stuck to the admiral’s side
during anchoring, had much English and smelled better than both crew
members, (criteria) was given the job of boat cushion washing.
McKindree and Beethoven gave a coconut to us the first day, they were
given exterior porthole washing. Vildo, who had told the captain he
preferred dealing with men . . . was given the deck and topside salt
wash. Each was paid well. Each came back many times for more work
despite being told we were finished. While aboard, each expressed
interest in some item that was needed, <i>Captain, you have two
anchors and use only one. I can use this one, </i>etc. Mike
clarified the need for a second in hurricane, high winds . . . but
language and need complicated the exchange. It was embarrassing to
have so much, and yet obligatory to have boundaries for our safety.</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; margin-bottom: 0.14in;">
The presence of
visitors was announced by the sound of the wooden canoe hulls bumping
against Horizon’s hull as the villager was saying <i>Hello, my
friend, hello. </i>Not Neil Diamond, but certainly an intro. The
introduction was humorous when we met another American couple at
anchor. They too had given away many treats, and warded off many
offers of help. They had not hired any work, but maintained as many
visits.
</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; margin-bottom: 0.14in;">
We said no many,
many times, feeling guilty, feeling bothered, watching for a fair
wind to leave. The second day we had 40 visitors to the boat, most
saying “you said yesterday . . . “. As we hired men to scrub the
boat, clean the portholes of salt, mend a sail, more came. In seven
days we had at least 15 people asking for work or food on all but the
last day. Some came three times in one day despite the “no,
finish, no more work”.
</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; margin-bottom: 0.14in;">
Children were not
in school. When queried, “school costs $25 US dollars a quarter,
can you give me work, buy my almonds, my mangoes?”A fellow named
Henry gave us two days of security for $5 a day, including free trash
disposal. His strength was his receipt book. We jokingly called him
the mafia, nice dinghy, several youngsters as collectors. Jean Jean,
known for his <i>restaurant</i>, excelled at sail repair, hand sewing
the entire foot seam of our mainsail. We gave him a surplus outboard
in payment, along with fuel and maintenance supplies. He was back a
day later for shoes. We ate at his restaurant, a simple dirt floor
porch, an excellent meal of grilled lobster, fried plantain, salad,
peas and rice. His youngest, Kathy, took my heart as she flirted and
crawled into my lap to braid my hair. Jean Jean placed the outboard
in their bedroom, also open air with a simple bed on the ground.
</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; margin-bottom: 0.14in;">
We would try to
tend to above deck chores quickly predawn or post sunset, if a head
emerged, the dugout canoes paddled as quickly as possible to speak
with you. Sadly by day three, we hid below decks unwilling to engage
in the hopeless exchange. To no avail, one fellow hung on the safety
lines whistling for us to come forth. The youngsters would come, hang
on the life lines, and whisper when you did not come up.
</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; margin-bottom: 0.14in;">
The encounters
could be enlightening. One boy asked for headphones, using hands to
express the need, when I said I had none he offered to bring me a
chicken. I told him his mother may not like this trade, one can
eat a chicken, not headphones. Another wanted spaghetti, for school
lunch. I was surprised at the specificity of his need. Granola bars
and chips were accepted.</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; margin-bottom: 0.14in;">
Pepe was a most
excellent guide on a 4+ mile walk to the town of Madame Bernard, for
the local market. We were very glad we choose to venture off the
boat because we were amazed at the vivid color and culture we
witnessed. The trip helped us see why we had visitors so frequently
and reinforced our own abundance. This is understatement. There is
no politically correct way to divulge just how much we took in on our
trip with Pepe. The pride, the colors, the adaptability, the
determination, the livestock, the lifestyle.
</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; margin-bottom: 0.14in;">
The supplies we
had for the orphanage were consumed by the village when Pepe released
them to one of his friends. He said they would be well used here, the
orphanage being five or more miles away.
</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; margin-bottom: 0.14in;">
Yasmin came late
the second day, after I had divided all the jobs. He was convincing
and intense. I could not say no, so instead decided as a student
needing money for school books, I would have him write in a journal.
He said he could only write in French which I accepted. I gave him
five topics to write for my grandchildren, should I have some one
day. His journal was short, his dreams specific, he wants to finish
school so he can be an asset to his family. <i>Because family is the
most important thing</i>. It was a good commentary on the sights we
had seen in Madame Bernard’s. Many children, many pregnant women,
few resources . . . spread very thin.</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; margin-bottom: 0.14in;">
Lingering
questions: How is it that a fair and just creator has one culture so
desperately needing and another so ridiculously wealthy? I can’t
see it as karma. I could not respond as I thought I should. As I
gave out treats to the children, I felt I was perpetuating a problem.
Who would pay to send a child to school when his begging reaps food
for his belly?
</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; margin-bottom: 0.14in;">
What kind of
government does not provide education? Is this the parable of the
talents in the Bible? What faith can respond to this? Mike and I
did the mitzvahs we could, but it was not enough. We felt exhausted
by the continuous violation of home space, even though they were
gentle and friendly.</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; margin-bottom: 0.14in;">
We left the
harbor as soon as the wind was tenable, willing to face nature’s
quirks rather than continue to cringe in our home. I am not sure that
the impact of the Mona Passage on the north route would have been as
profound. I do think we may have been better prepared.</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; margin-bottom: 0.14in;">
We will research
the Canadian non-profit, <i>Friends of Il A Vache, </i>even though a
cistern they had put into work at one village lay broken and
mis-used.
</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; margin-bottom: 0.14in;">
There are rumors
of moorings being put into the harbor. Could the money generated
meet the need? No answers.
</div>
<br />
<div style="line-height: 115%; margin-bottom: 0.14in;">
We entered the
Dominican Republic pessimistically hopeful that it was in better
shape. My daughter tells me there are only two categories of
countries now, Developing and Developed. There are severe gradients
in those two categories. Our DR guide tells us that the Haitians try
to cross the mountains, many are shot. He speaks disparaging of
Haitians. If I lived there, I would cross the mountain with my
family for a better life, as would he. </div>
</div>
Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04093333620701116892noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4701457111040888720.post-71103790708996872862014-04-23T17:48:00.001-04:002014-04-23T17:49:36.034-04:00Leaving Bahamas<p dir="ltr">After lots of discussion back and forth we are going to bite the bullet and leave the Bahamas heading south.</p>
<p dir="ltr">We spent today in Matthew Town, Great Inagua, the southern-most island in the Bahamas chain. We did some provisioning at the general store, then had lunch at Main House, the Morton Salt company town hotel, then went to customs to clear out of the country.</p>
<p dir="ltr">We also jerry jugged 25 gallons of diesel to top up our tank in prep for the next loooooong legs. The first leg will be 280 miles to the island of ile a vache, a French owned island off the southwest coast of Haiti. We then go 80 miles upwind to the first port in Dominica Republic. </p>
<p dir="ltr">Speaking of wind, we have been extremely unimpressed with the wind forecasts. The GRIBs (and Chris Parker) said winds down here would be northerly and then easterly. When we came into Great Inagua yesterday morning we bashed ourselves into 10-12 knots out of the southwest for the last 30 miles! Today we were supposed to have all easterlies but we are now anchored on a lee shore with 12 out of the west! Sigh.</p>
<p dir="ltr">We just hope tomorrow and Friday turn out to be sailing days with the 15-20 knot winds out of the northeast we have been told to expect. We will see.</p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg60x_N5IVrBYyTBeIzvTq699IAoVkBpBWOFwZKpIz3G53s1M6NqWkCoTO-IhBRYwNBGSmgYbRCjelihdpXhTAMB3OsrLnakaEn78rIfHtJF2vm_j2S3A3iSe4BCaxK6FKAuewc1OKSXkM/s1600/20140423_125036.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"> <img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg60x_N5IVrBYyTBeIzvTq699IAoVkBpBWOFwZKpIz3G53s1M6NqWkCoTO-IhBRYwNBGSmgYbRCjelihdpXhTAMB3OsrLnakaEn78rIfHtJF2vm_j2S3A3iSe4BCaxK6FKAuewc1OKSXkM/s640/20140423_125036.jpg"> </a> </div>Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04093333620701116892noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4701457111040888720.post-21306799559280856502014-04-15T12:31:00.000-04:002014-04-15T12:31:20.199-04:00Glory Days of George Town 2014<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Boats coming to George Town are encouraged to leave boat cards or sign a guest book at Chat n Chill. Karen of Popeye used the names of those vessels to construct this little ditty. There were a couple names that few could even pronounce, much less fit into a story.<br />
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<div align="center" lang="en-CA" style="line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<b>Glory Days of George Town</b></div>
<div align="center" class="western" lang="en-CA" style="line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
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<div class="western" lang="en-CA" style="line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: 0in; text-indent: 0.5in;">
Barefoot and with a Brave Heart he ran Against the Wind to seek his
Sol Mate.
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<div class="western" lang="en-CA" style="line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
“Carpe Diem!” he shouted with his eyes on the Horizon knowing he
had a Kindred Spirit out there somewhere. Would it be Audrey Anne?
Perhaps Margaret Lee? Or Sam-antha the Skull? Secretly, he hoped it
would be Fast Betty. She sounds like a real Spitfire.</div>
<div class="western" lang="en-CA" style="line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
With a Silent Faith he Reset his sails trying not to Tilt too much
and hoping he was Knot Lost. As the days went by he tried a Pagan
Chant hoping to find his Heart’s Desire. At night he’d sip
Bristol Crème thinking it was the Cat Sass. Those were Driftin’
Days for this romantic Voyageur.</div>
<div class="western" lang="en-CA" style="line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
Final Lee one day with the help of some Local Knowledge he met a Bon
Ange – a good angel. She was a fantastic Country Dancer. It was
his Dream to Catcher. They met at Rockin’ Ron’s when she rode up
on her Borrowed Horse, her Silver Heels flashing in the Fire Light.</div>
<div class="western" lang="en-CA" style="line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
“Well, Hello Texas!” he greeted her. “What If we try some
Slow Dancing?”</div>
<div class="western" lang="en-CA" style="line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
“Why you old Sea Dog!” she cried. “That sounds like a real
Good Idea.”</div>
<div class="western" lang="en-CA" style="line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
They danced until Tequila Sunrise then he served her a fruit salad
with Pineapple, Mango, Tangelo, Cantaloupe and Papaya.</div>
<div class="western" lang="en-CA" style="line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
“It’s Just Dessert from yesterday,” he apologized.</div>
<div class="western" lang="en-CA" style="line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
“Oh, but it’s Delicia!” she exclaimed.</div>
<div class="western" lang="en-CA" style="line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
Calling on his Courage he told her he had one plan: to Live Free or
Die.
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<div class="western" lang="en-CA" style="line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
“I have no Plan B,” he admitted.</div>
<div class="western" lang="en-CA" style="line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
“We’re Two of a Kind!” she cried. “Let’s Runaway at High
Noon right after I get back from the Five and Dime where I can make a
Good Trade – my horse for propane.</div>
<div class="western" lang="en-CA" style="line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
Ten Years After they are still in Bliss but Knot Tied. He still has
his Charisma and she Ain’t Miss B. Haven too much. They remember
the Glory Days of George Town as Kind of Magic and she’s still
Raven about his fruit salad.</div>
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<div class="western" lang="en-CA" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
March 2014</div>
<div class="western" lang="en-CA" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
Karen</div>
<div class="western" lang="en-CA" style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
m/v Popeye II</div>
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Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04093333620701116892noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4701457111040888720.post-27634436669984023192014-03-30T12:00:00.001-04:002014-03-30T12:00:39.149-04:00George Town - Mecca for Two Months<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
George Town has been our home anchorage for the last two months, dropping the hook on <span class="aBn" data-term="goog_1007111701" style="border-bottom-color: rgb(204, 204, 204); border-bottom-style: dashed; border-bottom-width: 1px; position: relative; top: -2px; z-index: 0;" tabindex="0"><span class="aQJ" style="position: relative; top: 2px; z-index: -1;">Feb 2</span></span>. It is the southern anchorage of the central Bahamas that has the most resources. It is also a host to 300+ boats over the winter months and a most organized cruising community. This includes an annual regatta sponsored by the cruisers in early March with numerous competitive and fun events. Because most of the cruisers are retired, it is a bit like a sand and sea senior center with daily events including dominoes, scrabble, volleyball, Bocce, etc. There are also weekly events like Texas Hold ‘Em, trips to town for the weekly Rake ‘n Scrape dance night. There are about 10% who are younger than retirement age that often have homeschooled children. It has been a Mecca for them as well with a Kids’ Cruising Net and specific activities just for kids. All that being said, Horizon has been anchored the furthest from the central event beach the entire time. We have participated in very few events. Though I am technically an extrovert, I have not felt a call to attend anything but the ladies’ luncheon. That was great, though I cringe at being called a “lady”. It was the place I met the most people and found some with common interest. A rug hooker from PA, a jewelry maker from DE, a painter from FL. Women who were anxious to return home, who unanimously wished they had more time with the grandchildren and who dread long passages. Kinship. But not friendship.<br />
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When the regatta ended, the boats started migrating back north. I call it the march of the Toy Sailboats. They troop in and out of the harbor looking small and insignificant until they join the group of soldiers anchored already.<br />
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So <span class="aBn" data-term="goog_1007111702" style="border-bottom-color: rgb(204, 204, 204); border-bottom-style: dashed; border-bottom-width: 1px; position: relative; top: -2px; z-index: 0;" tabindex="0"><span class="aQJ" style="position: relative; top: 2px; z-index: -1;">tomorrow</span></span> is our weather window to leave the harbor and head south I have been reflecting on friendship and cruising overall.<br />
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No matter what adventure I take on in life, I am the common denominator. Today I score about 11% higher on the extrovert/introvert of Myers Briggs Personality Inventory. I get some of my energy from other people. Which has made the cruising life do-able but a bit lonely.<br />
<br />
Recently I reposted a perfect meme—<i>friends are not made but recognized</i>. It takes some time to recognize them. Can friends be made who are ships passing in the night? Perhaps if we returned year after year, we would develop friendships. If we had moved the boat; attended some more things; invited folks over for drinks . . . the list goes on.<br />
<br />
So I leave George Town with a non-politically correct sentiment—a bit of disappointment. The Mecca did not have all that I expected. I am surprised to have not made more friend connections. And also aware that the one or two I have made are heading back to homes in CT and KY, Montreal . . I suppose I had unrealistic expectations for both George Town and for us.<br />
<br />
On the physical resource side, George Town lacked convenience. Because the island is so large, the pharmacy and auto supplies/home goods stores need a taxi. Because of the width of the harbor, going to town meant a long wet dinghy ride or moving the boat to the town side for a grocery run. It was the first place I bought weevils<span style="font-family: Wingdings;">J</span>, does not have a bakery. Any music/bar possibilities are far away, wifi is spotty at best. The Abacos will always hold my heart for the small islands with grocery, wifi, music.<br />
<br />
The Exumas have the bluest waters and best snorkeling. Hope to return to see all that we missed and revisit all that I loved. Meanwhile I am making more effort to hold onto existing friendships and family relationships. Determined to get Mike further along in the Caribbean, see some new cultures. God willing there is continued sat phone and internet ahead/ahoy.</div>
Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04093333620701116892noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4701457111040888720.post-37999305986064327052014-03-30T11:31:00.000-04:002014-03-30T11:33:29.768-04:00Two Horizons in George Town<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
We have been in George Town Exumas, Bahamas for almost two months now, partly waiting on a replacement radar dome but mostly just having fun being around such a huge cruising community. At one point there were over 300 boats in Elizabeth Harbor.<br />
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Our prior boat Horizon, the one I had for 25 years, came into the harbor about a month ago and we were able to spend a good bit of time with her owners and got to crawl through the old boat to see what she looked like now :) I was happy to see her so fit!</div>
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About a week ago they headed back towards Staniel Cay and as she sailed past, we got these pictures:<br />
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<h3 style="text-align: left;">
Radar Dome</h3>
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One of the reasons for staying so long was waiting for a replacement radar dome from Navico. It was a long and expensive wait but we finally got the new one here and installed on the mast. In all, it was $785 in shipping, customs, and documentation fees to receive the replacement radome, then send the broken old one back. The replacement radome cost $800 so the final cost was almost double. Wow! We could have bought an entire new system for that back in the U.S.</div>
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<h3 style="text-align: left;">
Our plans forward</h3>
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We leave shortly to continue our southbound trek. While our original summer goal was Luperon on the north coast of Dominica Republic, we have decided instead on exploring the south coast. That involves winding our way down the Bahamas chain to <b>Great Inagua</b>, then sailing through the Windward Passage between Cuba and Haiti to <b>Ile a Vache</b>, an island off the southwest coast of <b>Haiti</b>, a trip of about 280 NM. After we catch our breath, we then sail east to the first port in <b>Dominica Republic</b> and spend a leisurely couple months exploring the south coast. This route is well described in Frank Virgintino's free Cruising Guide to the Dominica Republic as found on the <a href="http://freecruisingguides.com/" target="_blank">FreeCruisingGuides.com</a> web site. We found it intriguing since so few cruising boats seem to take that path yet it appears rich in opportunities to explore the culture and heritage of Dominica Republic. </div>
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We expect that by July we will be heading to <b>Puerto Rico</b> where we can work to fix the oozing leak from our 120 gallon port side water tank. We hear there are all kinds of boat work facilities near Selinas and hope to find what we need. We intend to stay close to the well documented hurricane holes around that area during the summer.</div>
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Beyond Puerto Rico our plans are wide open but at the moment it looks like after October we might slowly work our way down the island chain to <b>Grenada</b>. We have lots of time and do not want to miss too much along the way:)</div>
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<h3 style="text-align: left;">
Mantra</h3>
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As we keep saying, "one island at a time". We will keep doing this until it is no longer fun. That may be a month or it might be years. We will keep you posted.</div>
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Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04093333620701116892noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4701457111040888720.post-69338444448595035182014-02-11T05:24:00.000-05:002014-02-11T05:24:37.103-05:00Moving Day<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
As a kid growing up in the suburbs of Baltimore, Moving Day was a bad boy night of pranks on or around Halloween. VW bugs were lifted and placed in new places, trashcans were “trashed”, trees toilet-papered, and windows egged. It was not a favorite among adults but it had a certain mystique for those of us not yet teens. A bit of dread, a bit of will I ever mixed with a fascination. Well . . .as a cruising First Mate at the ripe old age of 55, there is no mystique lingering in the concept of moving.<br />
<br />
After two blissful weeks of co-habitating at Allen’s Cay with iguanas and bottom fish, my own personal aquarium and all-around wind protection---the lure of meat, lettuce and yes, the ever-<br />
demanding egg fetish—drew me out of my newest safe zone.<br />
<br />
Those who have traveled the Exumas will realize that a move from Allen’s Cay to Highbourne is not one of great distance or strain. Unless of course you are aboard sailing vessel Horizon. The trip itself was not eventful. But the dinghy ride to Highbourne from the anchorage was spiritually uplifting. Translate into rote repetition of the rosary in order to keep from berating the captain or cursing the water dousing or wondering if either of us had the muscle to row back to Horizon. Because the problem with the Mercury outboard’s idle, which had been noted in Nassau, became permanent. As the throttle refused to advance, the current and waves took charge while the captain fumed, fussed and generally invoked my Catholic roots without realizing it.<br />
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Five decades of the rosary later, he announced that idle was all there was, and we proceeded slowly to the marina settlement at Highbourne. Or as Mike aptly calls it, Highbrow. My spiritual routine allowed me to reflect that future ventures would include a simple dress in dry bag to slip over the now requisite bathing suit for transport.<br />
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It also allowed me to crawl from the dinghy with head in a neutral position despite my soaking shorts, wet tee shirt and sloppy Teva’s. At the marina store, we found we needed to pay $5 a person to be afoot High Brow and that allowed only access to the store and the restaurant.<br />
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But it was very worth it. When your freezer has only three portions of meatballs, two portions of shrimp and a pair of pork chops, and you find the only store for thirty miles that has meat, lettuce and eggs . . . Blessed are thou among women.<br />
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Very few things were priced. We found the receipt enlightening, $9 for lettuce, $18 for a small frozen chicken among other interesting prices. But when in Rome . . .<br />
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We treated ourselves to lunch at the Xuma Restaurant---an excellent solace for the idle situation. We had the best food we had eaten since . . . Vero Beach. Although my daughters would disagree and say Baltimore, and Worcester respectively. We enjoyed a spectacular view of the amazing blue water along with a few Bananaquit scavenging for haute cuisine crumbs.<br />
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The quality of the food justified the price. In hindsight we realized that the only truly worth it food we have experienced in the Bahamas has been at marinas. Must be the influence of the High Brows :)<br />
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The guidebook said we could dispose of the first two bags of trash for $5. It ends up it was $5 a bag. That’s when the true Spartan emerged. I finagled two bags into one.<br />
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We boarded the dinghy a bit dryer, feeling re-provisioned. A returning tide helped us idle our way back to the boat.<br />
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I have had a lot of spiritual training in my 55 years. I have spent most of my post-first marriage time skeptical of religion. Cruising has given me many opportunities to express gratitude to the God of my understanding, and returned me to habits that I never realized were ingrained. Thank you Jean Fitzpatrick and the Rosary group. The one that disowned me over nursing Bridget.<br />
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I find the best times cruising are at anchor. And yet---wait for my next installment.</div>
Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04093333620701116892noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4701457111040888720.post-21963648011880672362014-02-11T05:13:00.000-05:002014-02-11T05:13:32.194-05:00Nassau<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
The guidebook said “you will either love it or hate it but you want to try it once.” Long-term cruisers said “don’t leave your boat, it was once great; now it’s a ghetto.” Well let’s just say that after a month on the leeward side of Devil’s Cay, Nassau was much anticipated. Eggs, internet, lettuce-----who could ask for more?<br />
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Unfortunately, the winds were 15 knots above expected and the waves were 2-3 feet higher than predicted. We entered fast and furious. Twenty-two degrees of heel. That is about 7 degrees into hell from my perspective. Items which had never moved below before were now in the center of the main salon with a very smelly sick cat navigating flying items. The other cat was safely rooted into the hanging locker. His meow is so undeveloped, if he was howling we could not hear him over the engine. Yes, horror of horror to the true sailors----we were using the motor as well as sails. Why prolong the fires of Gehenna if there is an engine to accelerate transition to safety? As we neared the port entrance, Nassau was experiencing a squall. That meant that sails would need to be brought down in 25+ knots of wind with a smattering of rain. I was unable to do the jib alone, Mike had to assist. The guidebooks spoke poorly of the anchorage stability citing high current and a non-reliable bottom. So we were on guard for the first twelve hours or so for dragging.<br />
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But once again our CQR anchor held firm. Thus began three weeks of exploring the culture and history of Nassau. Colorful, dramatic, proud Nassau. It was a wonderful experience. Many cruisers do not feel comfortable in Nassau but we found it very pleasant. Yes, a city, and yet an island with proud natives focused on customer service. Such a shift from what we had experienced in the Abacos.<br />
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My favorite spots . . . the Museum of Art was the perfect size, had excellent exhibits and did much to fill in the Nassau story and the Bahamian experience. The distillery tour offered us the best view of Nassau and the first sign of a rooster---always a herald of island life. The Bahama Rock cafe, just outside of the Queen’s stairwell, had excellent fare and free internet. The bus was easy and showed us much more of Nassau including a mall—perfect for pre-Christmas<br />
shopping. Auntie Ann’s was a nice reminder of home.<br />
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We had a few harbor-mates onboard for sundown one evening and another batch on Christmas day. It took the edge off of not being with family. Cruisers are inevitably unique company and share a wealth of great stories and experiences. We ended our respite in Nassau with a morning trek to town to see the annual Junkanoo celebration. It is the celebration of being Bahamian with a parade that lasts from midnight until almost noon. Ornate costumes, music, floats---all representing some aspect of being a Bahamian. I was lucky enough to have a 10 year old Bahamian commentator beside me on the fence. I agreed with her, “this was first class, not third class---but first class all the way—that’s the Bahamian way.” A city to return to someday.<br />
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Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04093333620701116892noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4701457111040888720.post-68484100182684757832013-12-10T11:22:00.000-05:002013-12-10T11:22:04.420-05:00Forty Shades of Blue<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
“No, you must see . . . Cay, it has a shade of blue like you have never seen before. It is beautiful, you cannot miss this. It’s the prettiest in the Bahamas. “<br />
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Really? I have witnessed about ten shades of blue. I feel totally complete.<br />
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I do not feel in any way lacking. All ten were and are exquisite. But enough already! The journey to this next magical Mecca is tedious, fraught with drama and unnecessary. So says the reluctant cruiser Cate.<br />
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We set out from Cat Cay in “not the best wind”. On the nose, 20+ knots. We have an open cockpit---which is delightful when anchored on a clear summer night. Not so much with saltwater splashing you in furious spurts. Each one like a personal affront. Why would a boater think staying dry is optimal? I agree, it seems counter-indicated, yet . . . I prefer to choose my times for getting wet. Cats were howling, puking. A heel of 10%---. The helm was designed for a male with long arms, long legs . . . not a 5’2” woman whose butt will not meet the back seat if her feet are on the step . . . . all for . . . “a shade of blue like you have never seen before.”<br />
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Is this not the proverbial search for the pot of gold? Or the perennial drive for the bigger and better?<br />
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Are the Joneses’ pictures of that island really better than mine of this island?<br />
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Or is this just my judgmental self whose imagination refuses to expand.<br />
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I do not have orgasmic responses to a new shade of blue. I am happy for those who do. But I need to simply say to them, Carry On. The ten shades right here, replete with grocery, bar with internet, a walking path and most importantly a safe anchorage---these ten shades can occupy my imagination for many moons. Blessings on you who want the extra thirty shades.<br />
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What drives your cruising? Is it island living or coastal skirting?<br />
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What kind of Island? One with people or uninhabited?<br />
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I would choose an island with internet, a grocery, and a restaurant/bar with internet. That works. If these things are in place---I can live there. Ferry to the airport---luxury.<br />
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The uninhabited are “abandoned” to my mind. God-forsaken. Take me to civilization. Nature is beautiful—but not enough. I am nurtured by civilization. Perhaps this is an introvert versus extrovert distinction.<br />
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Yes the blue shades are indefinable. Beautiful . . . and where are the people? Can I buy eggs? Lettuce? Is there a place to take the trash?<br />
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The uninhabited islands require burning burnable trash, separating cans, and biologics. Primitive. Let’s swim in our potato peelingsJ. Burning---what about air pollution and lung damage? Inhaling burning plastics . . . really?<br />
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But look at that blue—have you ever seen a blue like that before?<br />
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(SV Horizon spent almost a month at Devil Cay. Over time, the need for eggs diminished. The internet was checked by a faithful daughter, and the anchor held through some strong shifting winds. Mike’s nose injury and the weather prolonged the stay. I learned to enjoy the beach, did my Leslie Sansone walking video for endorphins and waited for a Nassau opportunity.)</div>
Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04093333620701116892noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4701457111040888720.post-46044316101758273582013-11-01T16:54:00.001-04:002013-11-01T16:58:46.875-04:00Vero Beach to Palm Beach<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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After 3 months tethered to a mooring, we bit the bullet and started south for a jump off point to the Bahamas. We were in company with our friends Lucie and Jean on the sailing vessel <i>Sebas</i>.</div>
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The first day we traveled a whopping 14 miles to Ft. Pierce. While the trip was uneventful, anchoring turned out to be more exciting than expected. Our turn into the wind to drop the hook was wide of our mark and we ended up hard aground. </div>
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After 15 seconds of full reverse with no movement we shut down the engine to keep from sucking debris into the cooling system. We launched the dinghy and took a Danforth anchor out about 100 feet at an acute angle to the bow. The rode was led through a bow chock to the windlass which luckily had the power to pull the bow and then rest of the boat off the shoal. Another 10 minutes and we were safely anchored where we originally wanted to be.</div>
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The next day we covered the remaining 48 miles dealing with 4 on-demand and <u>2</u> timed bridges. I hate those things! Almost to our destination, in Lake Worth sound there was enough room to finally do the sea trial commissioning of the new hydraulic autopilot. We had been using it the trip from Vero but with a lot of extra work getting it pointing correctly. In the open bay it took only a few minutes in a slow turn to calibrate the compass then about 20 minutes letting the autopilot software play with S-turns to learn how our boat handles. At the end everything is set up and seems to work perfectly.</div>
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One side effect of calibrating the autopilot compass and having it networked with the chart plotter is that we can now overlay radar on the charts. It sure helps to see things in context!</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDZ3wMoSloJSgPsFKOw8IzVCldI1RhTuD6GA5SSTWRRV3F8t_PBhCz2KDMBaMF4nDinnZNqht5QSN-oTxqqisFWZmrFpR1hhRDaypr8O6mDab543h_pKPv2BIaz89X6Auw7OS6wL49i8U/s1600/IMG_20131030_155307.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDZ3wMoSloJSgPsFKOw8IzVCldI1RhTuD6GA5SSTWRRV3F8t_PBhCz2KDMBaMF4nDinnZNqht5QSN-oTxqqisFWZmrFpR1hhRDaypr8O6mDab543h_pKPv2BIaz89X6Auw7OS6wL49i8U/s320/IMG_20131030_155307.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chart with radar overlay</td></tr>
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The gulf stream crossing window we were anticipating never quite appeared so we will be hanging out for a while here near Lake Worth Inlet at Palm Beach.</div>
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Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04093333620701116892noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4701457111040888720.post-88337467489780226162013-10-29T12:55:00.000-04:002013-10-29T12:55:20.989-04:00End Of Vacation Memories<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
As we wrap up chores in preparation to depart Vero Beach, I find myself mentally separating out my favorite memories of Vero, much as I did as a child at the end of a week at Bethany or Rehoboth Beach. What shells will I keep, which will I leave at the rental, which should I return to the sand?<br />
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The pile of shells to keep for Vero includes my time with the Alzheimer’s Parkinson Association and Debra. I reconnected with individuals with dementia and their quality of life in a powerful way in Vero.<br />
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My time reconnecting with my adult children was priceless. Shells to treasure, fondle every once in a while. Shells to add to the best of life pile. <br />
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I treasure and hope to maintain my work as Dr. Cate. Presenting at Arden Courts of Largo reminded me of my passion, my gift and the thirst for knowledge and support that is so palpable for Alzheimer’s caregivers. Training Carole of Harmony Home Health, reconnecting with this agency was uplifting.<br />
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I sift through many shells of multiple colors and shapes. These were the opportunities I had to re-connect with friends from Tampa, St Pete, Alexandria, VA, MD. Some of these had been neglected, tucked in a bag in the back of the closet. What a joy it was to bring them out and shine some light and new experience on them. These friends remind me that I am so lucky to be able to travel and explore. They remind me of the importance of re-connecting, maintaining despite time gaps. They may be in a bag, but they are not to be discarded. They will continue to be a part of my treasures brought forward from the closet.<br />
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For the non-cruising sailors, the last of my shells, the ones I will toss back are the chipped and broken clam and oyster shells.<br />
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Common to many, but unique to someone who lived outside the United States for a while. One was the cinema, with a weekly matinee—a real treat we had missed. The free bus to anywhere in Vero. It had some unusual riders, and quite a variety of angles—but it was special for our time here. The Publix, Walmart, Target, Starbucks, Beall’s, . . . a mall. Michael’s and Jo Ann’s! West Marine. Car rentals. The freedom of driving through no-man’s land on the way home from an airport. Air travel----so freeing and fast :)<br />
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I relished these common and chipped shells while state-side. So now we head out. First an easy day or two on the intercoastal. Smooth waters. Then the weather window to the Bahamas Bank. And beyond to shells unknown.</div>
Mikehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04093333620701116892noreply@blogger.com0